Jim's Garage

Replacing a Dodge Diesel Oil Pan

Repairing a Dodge Ram
Air Conditioning and TIPM

Repairing a Jeep
JK AC Compressor Clutch


Repairing a Dodge
with the Death Wobble

Repairing a Dodge
Sliding Rear Window

Repairing a Deere 317
48" Mower Deck

Repairing a
Deere 301 Tractor

Rebuilding a
Deere 33 Tiller

power steering to a Deere 317

Adding a sleeve hitch, hitch rod and plow

Hummer rims for a Ram

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Repairing a Dodge Ram with the Death Wobble
October 30, 2014
A few weeks ago, our son called and told me that he now knew what the dreaded Dodge death wobble was and that it scared the crap out of him. He was driving at interstate speeds and hit a good sized pothole. The front end of his 2006 Ram 2500 Hemi 4x4 quad cab started shaking violently. The only way he got it to stop shaking was to slow the truck down to around 35 MPH in the fast lane of interstate 95. He finished off his trip in the slow lane driving well below the posted speed limit. Since that day it has been getting worse each time he drives it. He asked if I could help him get rid of the wobble. I asked when he wanted to start work on it.

His truck is lifted a couple inches in the front using a Rough Country Leveling Kit [#9219] and he's running BF Goodrich 315/R70/17 All Terrain tires. I have the same tires but haven't installed the springs yet. They've been sitting under the bench for a couple years now. Before we went to the larger tires, we both had read as much as we could about larger tires and lifting the trucks. In the process of the research we had come across talk about the death wobble. We both knew about it, but neither of us had experienced it. He has about 80k miles on his truck and I have about 62k on mine. Not a lot of miles on either of them considering they're eight years old. He does a lot of driving , but has a couple of vehicles to split up his driving mileage and I now work from home and don't drive nearly as much as I did a few years ago.

While we were over visiting his family a week ago, I crawled under his truck and took a look at the front suspension. He only had a short pry bar to loan me, but I checked for steering play as best as I could with the tool I had. The track bar seemed a bit too easy to move, so we'd need to get some new track bar bushings to start with. He ordered a set of Luke's Link Track Bar Bushings. These are polyurethane replacements for the rubber bushings that come on the truck. I also thought that a couple of the tie rod and drag link ends were suspect, but I would need to do some measuring before I could be sure of that. We decided that he'd come up to our house once the bushings arrived and we'd do as much as we could in one day so that he could make the 120 mile trip back home that same day. He has his own family now and would rather be with them than spend the night at mom and dad's. I don't blame him.



Mike's truck a few years back when we had just added the front springs, rims and tires.
The old tie rod is held in the vise so we can get some measurements.

He arrived mid-morning with the track bar bushings in hand and we got to work. First we put the front end up on jack stands. One under each side of the front axle tubes. I did a shake test of each front wheel. I grabbed the driver's front tire at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions and tried to shake the wheel. This is done by pulling on the 12:00 position as you push on the 6:00 position and then reversed by pushing on the 12:00 position and pulling on the 6:00 position. Back and forth, back and forth, and repeat a few more times. I felt some movement, but not a lot. I thought that this was inconclusive, but warranted further investigation. I have to say that this is a lot easier if you're working with a passenger car with normal sized tires. The big 315/R70/17 BF Goodrich All Terrain tires are heavy and resist being shaken by anyone smaller than the incredible hulk. As I said, I felt some movement, but nothing definite at this point. I tried the shake test again using the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions. This time there was more movement. There's definitely some play somewhere that's not supposed to be there. The big question is where. A certain amount of movement is normal as the steering is meant to move. If the steering wheel lock is not engaged, you will see the steering wheel move as you perform this test. For all but the dealer mechanics, who work on these trucks daily and know by experience how much play is normal, it is probably a good idea to lock the steering wheel for this test. With the wheel locked, pretty much all movement you feel while shaking the wheels at the 9 and 3 positions will be unwanted looseness/slop.

We repeated the test on the passenger side front tire. The results were about the same on the 12 and 6 o'clock positions, but much worse on the 9 and 3 o'clock positions. OK, we've got some slop, but where? This is what we would now try and discern. The next test was to get out the dial indicator with a magnetic base and test the upper and lower ball joints. My Dodge workshop repair manual gives an overview of this procedure, but doesn't tell you where you should mount the dial indicator base. This is pretty typical for a factory workshop manual. You are expected to know that the base of the indicator needs to be attached to something that won't move in the same plane as the part you are testing. After all, you are a Dodge mechanic and have done this test countless times, right? Well, maybe. For those of us who aren't professional Dodge techs, attach the base to some part of the body that doesn't move with the front suspension. For testing the ball joints, I found a spot to attach the indicator base on the sheet metal next to the coil springs. The indicator plunger is placed on the steering knuckle next to the nut on the ball joint shaft. The plunger needs to be aligned to the vertical plane so that when you pry against the ball joint shaft and the cup that the shaft and ball reside in, you can measure the amount of movement. In this case it is up and down. With the indicator set up, I pried between the axle tube yoke and the knuckle. I got a reading of 0.040". I set the dial indicator back to zero to the test for the lower ball joint. This time you set up a jack stand and use it as the fulcrum for your pry bar. Pry upwards on the flat part of the steering knuckle next to the ball joint stud and nut using the jack-stand as the fulcrum. Record your movement. Ours was 0.041". Add these together and it shouldn't be over 0.090". Our combined reading on the driver's side was 0.081". Not worn to the point that Dodge recommends replacement, but close.  We repeated the tests on the passenger side and came up with total movement of 0.087". The ball joints were testing close to their limit and we discussed replacing them, but we still had more tests to perform.



Measuring how far to screw on the tie rod end so that the new tie rod is the same length as the old one. I'm not hiding from the camera... Really.
Measuring the total length so that the new tie rod is the same length as the old one.

Next on the agenda was testing the tie rod ends. The test procedure is similar to the ball joints; mount the indicator base to something that won't move, put the indicator plunger on the joint side of the tie rod end and use a pry bar to force the joint apart and measure how much the joint lifts away from the bolted side. The one thing to look out for is that the tie rod ends don't swivel while you are trying to measure them. You don't want them to swivel because of the possibility that you would end up measuring the swivel rather than the actual play. You need to use your pry bar in such a way as to try and force the joint apart without introducing any swivel in the joint. The driver's side tie rod end passed at about 0.010". The joints at the Pitman arm and passenger side tie rod both failed. Both were well over the 0.020" amount of allowable play. These joints had grease nipples. I asked my son how often he had been lubing them and he gave me a bit of a blank stare. Hmm, I guess they weren't getting enough lube. We discussed what repairs we wanted to do. To upgrade to the 2008 style steering, we'd need to replace the steering linkage (tie rod and drag link), Pitman arm, and the steering damper. This would be the best way to go as it changes the geometry from the inverted Y to a T shaped configuration. The T style configuration is a better design due to the ability to maintain a constant toe-in measurement as the suspension travels up and down. The inverted Y style wasn't the best design choice in my opinion.

The best price I found for the newer T style components online was $339 + shipping. From the dealer, it would be more than $500 and we still didn't know if we were going to need to replace the ball joints. If money were not a concern, we'd have gone with the new 2008 style steering setup. However with a new baby in their household and having just moved, he wasn't exactly flush with cash. We decided to replace only the parts that were way over spec and see if that would get him on the road without the wobble. If not, we'd do the ball joints as well. We were also replacing the track bar bushings and the added stiffness of the polyurethane bushings should help to keep the front end from moving in unwanted directions. Hopefully we'd be able to make a big improvement in the wobble without spending a small fortune. With all of the reading I had done on the death wobble, I had found that quite a few folks had replaced a lot more parts without curing the wobble. I was hoping that this wasn't going to happen to us.

In the process of stripping down the truck for inspection, we found that the front brake pads were getting low. We also found three snapped lug studs on the passenger side front wheel. A couple months back, he had the truck in for an alignment and while I hesitate to place blame, the truck came back to him with the steering wheel off center and the front lug nuts so tight that we needed a breaker bar with a cheater pipe to get them loose today. Somehow I don't think they used a torque wrench to set the lug tightness. They also missed the fact that there were loose joints in the steering system. I was not impressed with their work.



Test fitting the new tie rod and drag link.
The shop is just tall enough to handle the truck with the 315 tires and a small lift.

I was planning to do the alignment myself, in the garage, with a tape measure to set the toe-in and I had a Joe's Racing 28210 Caster Camber Gauge so we could check and set the camber and caster. While I will be the first to agree that a high dollar alignment rack is a better tool for the job, to get a good alignment, the operator of that machine has to know and care about the job he/she is doing. Finding a good alignment tech is much harder than finding a good alignment machine. I have done many hundreds of alignments on all kinds of equipment during my time as a mechanic and considered myself a decent front end tech, but that was many years ago and I worked on imports not American trucks. That said, taking alignment readings is pretty much the same on all cars/trucks. The difference is in how the adjustments are made. The biggest advantage to having me do this alignment is that I have a vested interest in making sure that it is as close as it needs to be. I will also be able to monitor how the truck drives, as well as monitor the tire wear and make adjustments if they prove necessary.

Because we were trying to fix this issue on the cheap, we decided to go with aftermarket parts. We made up a list and headed to the local auto parts store. After some trouble finding the right parts on their computer catalog, we finally thought we had found the right stuff and ordered it. The Advanced Auto Parts numbers for the tie rod and drag link were DS1464 and DWDS1463. It was 2 PM and they said they'd have the parts by 4 PM. We hoped so. It was going to be one of those late night marathons. Unfortunately, they didn't have stock of the lug studs and couldn't get them today. At $4.95 each, I thought they were a bit expensive anyway. We had a couple hours to kill, so we decided to go to the local Dodge dealer and get the studs. They didn't have any either and they wanted almost $15 each. They must be really nice studs at that price. We finally found them at a NAPA store for a little under $5 each. I guess that $5 is the going rate.

We headed back to pick up the steering parts and were pleased that not only were they there at the time he had promised, but they looked like the correct parts. They gave my son (who is in the Army) a military discount and we were on our way home. A tie rod link, a drag link, and some semi-metallic brake pads for under $185. Not too horrible.

It was already 4:30 and we had not yet started putting the new parts on the truck. We were going to be here for a while. Michael got started doing the brakes and I started transferring parts on the suspension. The driver's side tie rod end was good, so it was getting transferred to the new center link that comes with the passenger's side tie rod end. I measured the distance between the two tie rod ends and made sure that when assembled, the total length of the new part was the same length as the old one. I did the same with the drag link. Before we installed the steering linkages, we decided that it would be easier to replace the track bar bushings without the new parts in the way.



New red track bar bushings and what is left of the old ones after being pressed out of the track bar. The old socket fits the outer bushing sleeve well.
Pulling the suspension over a half inch. The chain is attached to the diff tube yoke, then to the ratcheting chain binder.

The track bar is held in by two bolts; one at each end. The nuts that secure the bolts have a sheet metal flag welded to them. The flag allows you to position the nut into a space where your fingers couldn't get to if you had a nut without this extra long handle. I applaud the engineer who designed this feature. Without the flag, it would be near impossible to get the nut positioned. As it is, getting the passenger side nut centered on the bolt is no easy feat. The one on the driver's side is much easier. With the track bar out, we pressed out the rubber center of the bushings on my 20 ton shop press. The next step was pressing out the thin outer stamped metal shell of the stock bushings. Fortunately I have a bunch of old 1/2" drive sockets that get used as press tools from time to time. This was one of those times. The socket we chose was almost the perfect diameter, but I got it a little cocked on the second bushing and flattened out one of the edges. This required me to use a cold chisel and punch to deform the lip of the bushing enough that we could then press it through the track bar. Not a big deal, but another 20 minutes spent on a job that should have taken five.

Getting the track bar back in was a bit of a chore. We installed the passenger side first and it took a while to get that flag nut on the bolt and finally get it cinched down. When we lifted the driver's side of the track bar into position, it didn't fit. It was about a half inch too short -- too far toward the passenger side. Apparently the suspension had shifted a bit when we pulled out the track bar. I knew that we needed to pull the suspension toward the driver's side of the truck and I had a come-along that would do the job, but I had loaned it out and it wasn't back yet. What to do? I finally remembered that I had a chain binder that could serve as a puller. We hooked the binder up to a chain with one side hooked to the area near the differential tube's passenger side shock mount. The other end of the binder was hooked to the body of the truck on the driver's side. A few turns of the ratcheting chain binder pulled the axle housing closer to the driver's side and we were able to put the bolt through the track bar and cinch it tight. Success.

Installing the steering linkages didn't take long. When we had everything in place, it was time to align the truck. We let the truck down off of the jack stands, started it up and more or less centered the steering wheel. The next step was to get the front wheels straight with the rear ones. The easiest way to do this without an alignment machine is with a long string. Have one person hold the string half way up the rear tire's tread. If you do this on the rear facing side of the tread and stretch the string forward to just in front of the front tire, the string will contact the rear tire's side wall in two places. Your goal is to get the string to also contact the same side front tire in two places. Turn the steering wheel slightly until you have achieved this. Now move to the other side of the truck and check to see if the string will contact both tire's sidewalls. Chances are that if you measured the placement of the tie rod ends correctly, it will be close. If it is not close to contacting the side wall of the front tire in two places, spin the adjusting sleeve on the tie rod (lowest of the two bars with adjusters). One direction will move the front edge of the front tires farther apart. The other direction brings them closer together.



The hole in the track bar bushing now lines up with the hole in the mount. The mount is the bright piece on the upper right.
The chain binder was attached to a gap in the frame on the driver's side. My come-along would have been better, but the chain binder worked.

With the front wheels now pointing straight ahead, you can check the toe-in. For this truck, the spec is 0.10° ± 0.05° toe-in per side. This would mean a total toe-in of from 0.10° to 0.30°. I wanted 0.15° total toe-in which works out to about a 1/8" difference between the front and rear readings using the method I will describe. This is a two person job. You will need two straight sticks that are four feet long. We used a couple four foot fluorescent tubes. How's that for making use of what you have? I'll call these sticks just to make it easier to type. Center the sticks on the wheel so that the overhang of the stick on each side of the wheel is the same. The sticks should be parallel with the ground and placed around the center of the wheel. Place the hook end of a tape measure over the front end of the stick and have one person hold it in place. The second person holds his stick and the body of the tape measure and measures the distance between the sticks making sure that the measurement is taken on the front end of his stick as well. Note the reading. Our front reading was 64 3/8". Now move the tape measure to the rear end of the sticks which will be behind the front tires. Make sure that you hook the tape measure to the same relative spot as you did in the front. Take your reading. Ours was 65". Subtract the front reading from the rear (65 - 64 3/8). This gave us a total toe-in of 5/8", which is too much. If the front reading was larger than the rear, then you have toe-out and you'd want adjust it until you have toe-in.

At 5/8" total toe-in, we had a 1/2" too much. This means that the length of the tie rod needs to be expanded to widen the distance between the front edges of the tires. If your measurement was larger in the front (toe-out), then you will need to lessen the length of the tie rod. If I recall correctly, it took a few turns of the adjustment tube to remove that extra 1/2" of toe-in. We remeasured again and had 64 5/8" for the front measurement and 64 3/4" for the rear. 64 3/4 - 64 5/8 gives us 1/8" toe-in and this equals 0.15° when using a 4 foot stick. When you are sure that the tie rod adjuster has been set to give you the toe-in you want,  make sure that the tie rod end on the driver's side is centered and not tilted to either side. Hold the adjuster sleeve tight and spin each of the clamps to where you can tighten them up and lock the adjustment. You get bonus points if both the clamps are lined up and pointing in the same direction. You don't want it to look like you aligned the truck in your garage, do you? At this point, your steering wheel may not be straight. You can lengthen or shorten the length of the drag link, using the adjuster sleeve, to change the position of the steering wheel. You can go ahead and do this now, but don't tighten the locking nuts up all the way as you will want to refine your setting when you take your test drive and find out what position the steering wheel is when you are on a flat road traveling straight ahead.

The next step was to check the camber and caster. Camber is the tilt of the front wheels when you are looking at the wheels from a viewpoint in front of the truck. If the tops of the tires tilt toward each other, it's negative camber. If they tilt away from each other, it's positive. The spec for the 2006 2500 4X4 is 0.25° ± 0.50° positive individual camber. You will notice that the plus or minus a half degree means that the camber can range from 0.25° negative camber to 0.75° positive camber on each front wheel. I would prefer to see a small amount of negative camber on a vehicle. To measure the camber, you just stick the gauge on each front wheel's center hub, over the big axle nut, level the gauge with the little bubble level in the end of the tool and take your reading. Bounce the front end a couple times and check it again. Our readings showed a hair over 1/4° negative on each wheel. Nothing needed to be done. Both sides were the same and just a tiny bit more negative than the Dodge spec. Close enough for government work.

Caster is the front to rear tilt of the steering axis. If you could see the ball joints from the side of the truck, you'd see that if an imaginary line was drawn through the upper and lower ball joints it would be slanted with the top of the line rearward to the bottom of the line. The lower ball joint is further forward than the upper one. If you compare the truck's caster angle to motorcycle front forks, a street bike has less caster angle than a chopper with a long front fork. Both are negative caster, I.E. the top of the fork is behind the bottom of the fork. The street bike with less caster is quicker to turn but gives up some stability at speed. The chopper with it's long front end (much more caster) is stable as a rock at speed, but gives up low speed maneuverability. The effect of the caster angle on the truck is similar, but not nearly as exaggerated as the example I gave.



The three basic settings in an alignment. Toe-in, camber and caster.
Getting the wheels straight. The red string is held on the rear tire tread and contacts the sidewall on two places on each wheel.

Checking the caster is a bit more involved, but with the Joe's Racing camber/caster gauge or any of the gauges with a magnetic attaching adapter, it is easy. Note that I did need to modify my gauge's adapter to get it to fit over the large axle nut. This was a quick job on my lathe where I increased the diameter of the center hole by about an eighth inch, but I think that the company also sells a larger adapter that will clear the nut without resorting to modifications. If you are going to order one of these gauges, measure the widest point of the front axle nut and washer and compare it to the adapter.

To check the caster, you need to turn the tires about 40° to take your measurements. The pro alignment machines have swivel plates marked in degrees that the front tires sit on. This allows you to easily turn the wheels to their proper position to perform the caster test. I have no swivel plates, but it's not a big deal. Some DIY guys use cookie sheets under the tires to make them swivel easier. I use nothing. The power steering will easily turn the wheels and when I get to the angle needed, I rock the steering wheel a few times to make sure that the tire is sitting squarely on the floor at whatever the chosen position.

The first thing needed is to mark the floor to give you the angle references. I placed a strip of tape on the garage floor in front of each front wheel. The tape is parallel with the front wheels and extends in front of the truck about a foot. With a protractor, I placed two more strips of tape beside the first piece. One starting directly in front of each tire and extending at a  20° angle to the left and one extending at 20° to the right. The three pieces of tape form what looks like an arrow pointing at the outside edge of each front tire. The procedure for checking the caster is as follows. Turn the wheels 20° to the right -- parallel with your right tape line. Place the caster gauge on the center of the wheel over the axle nut. Level the gauge using the little bubble level closest to you. The caster bubble vial is the center one of the three. There is an adjuster on it. With the adjuster, set the bubble to be centered on zero. Turn the steering wheel so that the right front wheel goes past your center tape line until it is parallel with the left 20° tape line. You have now moved the wheel 40°. Check to see where the bubble is now. This is your caster reading. Ours was 5° and the spec is 4.5° ± 0.5°. Now repeat the process on the left front wheel. On this wheel, you start with the wheel lined up to the left 20° tape mark, then turn the steering wheel to the right until it lines up with the right 20° tape mark. Again, we found we had 5° of caster. While the caster was right at the high end of the spec, I had been thinking about it for a while and was prepared to try increasing it to 6° if we couldn't get rid of the wobble any other way. The extra degree might make the front end less prone to wobble while we looked for other worn parts. However, for the time being, nothing needs to be changed here either.

Adjusting the camber and caster is a little more involved than setting the toe-in. It's not rocket surgery, but if you've never done it before, I would advise having a service manual to refer to. There are procedures that must be followed in order to get the job done correctly and the adjustments change both camber and caster. Setting both camber and caster involves moving the position of the control arms using eccentric bolts in slotted holes. If you need to adjust the camber or caster, you should recheck the toe-in after the camber and caster have been set.

As for my thoughts as to why the caster and camber didn't need adjustment -- it had been set correctly at the factory and hadn't been changed since then. Unless you whack something pretty darn hard, the alignment settings don't usually move. The exception to this is worn steering parts can cause the alignment settings to change. When you replace the parts, you must check the alignment. Even though my son has had a recent alignment, they did not adjust the eccentric cams on the control arms. I know this because I had marked them with a punch when we had the front end apart to install his leveling springs. They were still at the same place I had set them almost 3 years ago and I set them to where they had been before we loosened the control arms. I figure that they probably did check the settings, but since they were within spec, they didn't need to do any adjustments. I did see one thing that I didn't like that I can attribute to them. It appears that they had loosened the outboard clamp on the driver's side tie rod and turned the tie rod end a bit. This resulted in the tie rod end being tilted rather than being perpendicular with the tie rod shaft and nut. The tie rod end should be centered on the steering knuckle and it wasn't. Being tilted, the joint's range of motion is restricted. This was the tie rod end that we didn't need to replace, but if we had left it tilted for an extended period of time, it would have worn out prematurely. If they were trying to set the toe-in, both nuts should have been loosened and the sleeve turned in or out to make the adjustment. The inboard clamp nut had not been loosened and was very stiff from rust. The sleeve had some rust as well and hadn't been moved in years. It took a good soaking with some penetrating oil and working it back and forth a bit at a time to get it freed up. Anyway, enough of my complaining. I was pretty confident that our current alignment was darn close and it was almost time to take the truck for its test drive. We were sure hoping that we had made an improvement in the wobble.



Using two 4' sticks centered on each front wheel, you measure distance "a" and "b". Distance "a" should be 1/8" to 1/4" smaller than distance "b" for a total toe-in reading of 0.15° to 0.30°.
Use a protractor to place some tape on the garage floor marking out 20°, 0°, and 20°. This will give you marks to line the tires up with when you check your caster.

Before we backed the truck out of the shop, I crawled under the front end one last time and put a wrench on each nut we had worked on. Everything was tight except for the two clamps on the drag link that I had just tightened enough to keep them from moving until we could do the final adjustments on centering the steering wheel. Mike backed out of the shop and we headed out into the night. Before we even got off the gravel road and on to the public highway, he commented that the steering felt a lot tighter. It wasn't wandering as much as it had been. We got out on to one of the back roads and he got the truck up to 50 or so and hit a small pothole at speed. No wobble. When we reached the highway, he got it up to 60 and ran over a few more dips and bumps. So far, so good. No wobbles. After a couple miles we found a flat, straight place to pull over. He backed up and pulled forward with his hands off the steering wheel and let the truck position itself straight ahead. He stopped and I got out and crawled under the truck with my tools. The steering wheel was pointing a bit to the right when it should have been straight. I loosened both the lock nuts on the drag link adjuster and turned the sleeve until the steering wheel was centered. I repositioned the clamps and tightened the lock nuts and we drove some more. The steering wheel was now centered. We headed back home and cleaned up and called it a day. I asked him to send me an email after he arrived home to let me know the outcome of the drive. His two hour drive home down I-95 would let us know whether the truck was fixed or not. I got an email saying that it was a pleasant drive home. No wobbles and the steering felt a lot better than it had in quite some time.

While we have only this one vehicle where we've seen the wobble and apparently fixed it, I can offer my views on what I saw on this truck. The wobble was fixed by replacing the worn out tie rod ends - or in this case - the drag link and tie rod (center link) that come with those joints. I am pretty sure that replacing the track bar bushings helped as well. This is all we changed. His BFG 315 tires are getting close to needing replacement and the truck doesn't wobble. We did rotate the tires so the tires that are now up front are nice and flat from being on the rear of the truck. The tires that were up front have some edge "cupping" which seems to be pretty normal for tire wear on these trucks. My BFG's show a little cupping on the front tires also -- as do the stock tires that now sit in the shed. The cupping wear on both his and my tires is pretty minor. You can feel a slight difference in tread height as you run a finger over one tread to the next around the circumference of both the inside and outside edges of the tires. Maybe if we both rotated our tires a bit more frequently, we wouldn't see this.

As I said, the ball joints on his truck showed some wear, but in this case the wear isn't causing the truck to wobble when hitting pot holes or bumps at speed. This truck has the old style power steering box and the steering box shaft that holds the Pitman arm has a bit of vertical play. My truck which has less miles and no wobble has the same amount of play in the shaft so I didn't consider it an issue. I mention these items because I kept reading that people were replacing these parts without checking the basics and wondering why the truck still wobbled. Again, I have only this truck to base my opinion on, so maybe some trucks don't respond to having worn parts replaced. We'll keep an eye on the tire wear and I will check the tie rod ends and ball joints next year to see how they're doing. I am hoping that with some regular lubing, they will last for a long while.

As I said, I have read a lot about others' experiences with the wobble and have read some horror stories of thousands of dollars being spent and the wobble still remains. Since I haven't been able to see these trucks, I have to take these stories at face value. Maybe we just got lucky or maybe the guys working on these trucks missed something. I don't know. What I do know is that we tried to approach this repair in a methodical manner and not just throw parts at it. We found some worn parts, replaced them, and the wobble went away. I wish it was always this easy. I also hope that if you are reading this article with hopes of fixing your wobble, that you have the same outcome as we did.

© Fager October 30, 2014